Change of plan

Hayden has been a little hard to settle over the last 3 days so thought best to cancel the trip up North and spend my first weeks holiday cycling around locally. Will still be doing 60 miles a day though and will head up to oulton park and Huddersfield on Sunday/Monday. Hope to cycle back but will see how it goes. So reached the river tamar this morning, climbing 1359 ft and travelling just over 20 miles.

Planning for 2010 bicycle trip

Leaving in 1 week for an 800 mile cycle journey visiting Oulton Park for the BSB racing, the Peak District and my good friend Sparqui and his family. Will be using a mountain bike with a trailer in tow containg all my camping gear. Route calculated and a 16 mile test run with trailer completed . Trailer worked well and prefer it to a pannier system.

Went to Thruxton for the BSB over the weekend. Great weather, journey and racing.

Channel Tunnel

Decided to hop onto the train in Calais this afternoon and head back home. Met some fellow bikers, and the whole Channel Tunnel experience was a very smooth and pleasant one. Got home around 11.30pm in time for a quick few drinks.

The journey home

It's really the end of my trip now as I head back home. Went through Slovenia, the mountain roads through Austria, and into Germany for the night. Pretty uneventfull day when compared to the last week and by 5.00 the rain came in again and it was time to find a place to stay. Found a small hotel in the hills just outside of Stuttgart. Big birthday party tonight and of course I was made welcome. Very friendly people.

Serbia and Croatia

Bulgaria continued to impress me, and I remembered how great it was to be able to park my bike right next to the swimming pool yesterday and share a conversation with the owner of a Honda Paris to Dakar XL. Seriously cool bike.






The horror stories and warnings once again were not justified today. The border into Serbia had a massive sign welcoming me, and although the border guards were thorough, they were friendly and wished me a pleasant stay in their country. Serbia was similar to Bulgaria with an obvious mixture of the very rich and the very poor. Loads of big Merc's and BMW's sharing the roads with the horse and carts. The place was very picturesque, the roads and services fantastic, and the people, as always, friendly and helpfull. The only downside was the extreme heat. It was painfully hot visiting Beograd and on the border to Croatia the wait was long and dehydrating. Only noticed two other motorcycles on route through Serbia.
Croatia was also hot and after 15 hours on the bike it was time to go to bed. Was happy in Croatia to share the usual biker gestures with the police bikes as well as the many adventure bikes in Croatia. Was at least two other fully loaded orange 990's.

Uncle Bulgaria

Bulgaria has been a great, freindly, and interesting place to visit so far. Head into Sofia in the morning and then cross the border into Serbia. Again I have heard many horror stories from people I have met. They all say to take the boat from Greece to Italy.

To Bulgaria

Border crossing was fine and did not relate to any of the horror stories I had heard. Rode with another orange KTM adventure in the morning and then 2 brand new KTM Adventure R's later in the day. Really great scenery riding through the mountains. Really enjoyed it. Arrived with Mark and the gang around 8.30. Was impressed to find them without any problems using just this map from Mark.

Days rest in Greece

Had planned to visit Athens today but instead had a long sleep and then went to visit Michael's mother and sister. On the way we dropped off the bike alarm buttons to Vagelis, who I met the previous night. He works with watches and kindly said he would have a look at the alarm key. So sat on the balcony with Michael, his sister and a beer then it was time to eat. Wow! A table full of seafood awaited me. It was just fantastic. After lunch I joined Michael's sister for a coffee down by the sea. Like everyone else in Greece, she was very warm and generous. After saying goodbye to Michael's mother, it was off to the beach to meet Michael's girlfreind, Natasha. It was really hot and it wasn't long before I was in the sea. Michael's friend popped round in the evening on his bike and returned my alarm key. He had cleaned it, replaced the batteries, and it worked great. I was well impressed. Climbed on the back of the bike and went to a bar overlooking the water and the city. Natasha and Michael arrived a little later. Once again I was treated to a pleasant evening. Was sad to have to leave the next day and said my goodbyes. Greece is beautiful and everyone very kind.

Greece

Could of slept anywhere last night, empty stomach, loads of drink! I really need a shower so was happy that when riding in Greece a helmet etc. was optional. Even in just a t-shirt I was melting. The ride through the mountains was fantastic. Passed a fellow KTM Adventura, we waved over enthusiastically especially as our bikes were the same colour. Michael met me outside his village and took me to the beach with his friends. I stuck out like a sore thumb, British pink surounded by the tanned and trim. The swim in the sea was perfect as was the beer. Later went to a restauraunt with more friends on the beach. They have made me feel very welcome.

Boat to Greece

Italy are obviously very fond of Rossi. The petrol stations were filled with Rossi hats, etc. Was tempted to buy something but no room left on the bike.
Waited 4 hours to get on the boat this morning. No shade and no drink. It was hectic! Everyone shouting, the police involved, whistles going off. I have never seen such confusion and chaos trying to get some vehicles onto a boat. There was just no system whatsover and tempers were frayed. I spent some time talking with an English bloke and his Greek wife. They live in Germany and have invited me to stay on the way home. They told me they take the boat and never drive through Romania, Bulgaria, etc. The rest of the conversation has not filled me with a lot of confidence for the last part of the journey. I nearly turned round and came home, when finally I was told I could come aboard. No straps to keep the bike upright, just a piece of string and nothing to tie it too. If it goes over it's going to seriously upset the BMW who parked right next to me. Food court closed and sleeping is outside on deck. Once going it was a packet of crisps, a bar of chocolate and a load of booze. Just like home then!

Super Mario Land

Into Italy and done another 1000km today. Went over the bridge into Venice and the place was heaving and very hot. Wanted to visit the leaning tower but there was not enough time. Arrived at the beach near Ancona about 8 pm. Boat leaves in the morning for Greece.

Stuffed

Spent yesterday afternoon wandering around Salzburg, taking pictures for others over the river, and found a box of chocolates for the people servicing the bike.
It rained again today so just returned the loaned bike and waited for mine to be done. Was well looked after with coffee's and red bull's, and the bike was ready, cleaned and polished at the end of the day. They were gratefull for the gift, and I then headed west in the rain. It was only a 300km ride but my fingers were numb and I was glad to find a little ski resort with timber/log buildings, shops and bars to spend the night. A chef ran out in the rain and helped me get the bike into a garage. Upstairs the place was full of stuffed animals including a large bear! During my meal a line of oldies were doing the conga round the restaraunt to the sounds of an Austrian yodelling Elvis. There where quite a few of em. It was all too much for me!

Bike sorted

The KTM dealer in Salzburg found time to service the bike. It needs 2 more tyres, set of sprockets and a new chain. Front brake pads may need to be changed too. There is an Xbow in the shop and it looks so fantastic. I would love one. Really would. Looks so much better in real life. They have lent me a 690 enduro R for the day but it is has just started raining again.

More rain and pants!

Upon entering the Czech republic I was amused by the sight of a man walking the dog in his just his pants! The change in scenery was quite drastic. Lots of colour, little imaculate villages, and some children all smartly dressed playing in a brass band. Entered Austria and was greeted by a another big thunder storm. It really did rain with a lot of cars pulling over and stopping. The only way through it was to ride fast, sing loudly, and go a bit mad. Visited Vienna (in the rain) and now in Salzburg. Staying at the same place I visited 3 years ago. First time since Iceland that there was a vegatarian meal on the menu that wasn't a salad. Visited the Laundrette and the sports bar. Hadn't seen a TV since I left England. The tennis was on.....YAWN!! Have now travelled 8,500 miles.

Pickled Gherkins and Vodka

Another entertaining evening. I was warned about the vodka. It hurts! More bruises gained.




The border into Poland was by far the busiest on this trip but again no problem. As a motorcyclist Poland was hard work and the heavy rain and thunder storm didn't help. The roads were bumpy, rutted, with lots of trafic and was slow going. It took 12 hours to do 600km. I rode through Warzawa and Kraków and on route noticed a lot of broken down cars, people selling stuff by the side of the roads and a lot of police about. Poland was certainly very different to everywhere else I had been. There is a mixture of the old and the new and found the country to be interesting and the people I met bubbly.
Czech Republic then Austria tomorrow. Got a phone call from Michael in Greece. I hope to visit his home in a weeks time.

No problems

Got the boat to Tallin this morning and then tried to find the bike dealer. Could I find it! Could I f.... Could I find the vintage bike museum! No! The addresses I had did not match anything I had on my maps or sat nav. After an hour I decided to leave Tallin and head for Austria for the bike service. It's the home of KTM and I know from the previous trip that there are loads of dealers and a service there will be no problem. So rode out of Estonia, through Latvia and got half way through Lithuania. All the negative things I read were not justified. The borders were no problem, people friendly and roads not too bad. Ended up in a motel for 20 euros and the owner was quick to hide the bike round the back. Bikers round here have a bad reputation and he needed the bike out of sight. He has got me a couple of beers and the barbaque is on the go. Will be in Poland tommorow and then need to get to Austria the next day. About 1500km's.

Tramps and Gays

Arrived yesterday at 1.00 and tried to find a dealer that could service the bike. I had no joy so went out drinking. Surfed the net and then phoned a KTM dealer in Estonia this morning. Communication was a little dificult but I think all should be OK and the bike is booked in for Friday afternoon. Had a long walk through the city today and finally got to see some tramps. Why is that you don't see any for weeks and then 4 of em come at once? Helsinki is a pleasant place and has been fun. There are a lot of Snake skin shoes about, elvis style quiffs, goths, metal heads and men who like men! How European!
So tommorrow the boat leaves for Tallinn and the 3rd part of my journey begins. I have no idea what to expect for the next 4 days visiting Latvia, Estonia, Lithuania and Poland. All research done doesn't paint the best of pictures, but they say you can't always believe what you read! Will go with an open mind, what's the worse that could happen? No too much booze tonight as an early start in the morning.

Santa Claus Village

12 hours in the sadle heading for Helsinki. Popped into see Santa, but the big guy wasn't about. Probably working on his naughty and nice list. Not quite what I expected. It is now 9pm and will have just a 3 hour ride in the morning. Will spend the next 2 nights in Helsinki, and will try any get the bike serviced there. It has done nearly 7,000 miles this trip.









The White line is the Artic Circle. Although I was told that technically the circle moves every year.

First night in Finland

Early start thanks to some knob 'eds car alarm going off at 6am. Slept well though and feeling a whole lot better today. The last 100km to Nordkapp were stunning with the journey littered with yet more reindeer and fantastic scenery. Loads of cyclists - there all mad you know!
Was a bit gutted by the final destination as I was hoping to get a "Lands End / John 'O Groats" type picture with me and the bike showing I had made it to the northest point of Europe. No dice! So took these instead...






In Finland again and have ended up in a motel next to a night club. Just sat down to eat and everything on the menu includes reindeer. Good job I like reindeer then! Nice enough little place though.

Nordkapp

Felt rough last night. Hot, tired, nauseus with loss of appetite. 8 days sweating in my black bike gear, sitting on a hot engine in the blistering heat cooked me. Felt like I was a boil in the bag meal! So had the option to rest for a day or head over the artic circle to the northest point of Europe for a cooler few days. Don't like sitting about so went north. Within a few hours I was cold and by the end of the day I was freezing. Crossed the border into Finland and I instantly liked the place. Really freindly, and I just felt like I was in a different place and a long way from home. Empty roads with loads of reindeer about, lots of log cabin souvineer shops and little cafe's. The souvineer shops are something else. Massive! On one stop I got to witness a guy sculpting with his chainsaw. Clever stuff! Went past Lapland and all that, will pop in on the way back. The road then took me back into Norway and eventually to a campsite. Loads of bikes about and one rider has just walked by and kindly let me know that I have a nice bike. Think I will have some company for the 3 hour ride to Nordkapp in the morning. Got a feeling Nordkapp will be like John O' Groats. It's now 11pm and still very much daylight. Bed time.

Lulea

Woke up thinking it was Sunday - my last night in Norway was an interesting one! but then had an early start to the day with a short ride out of Norway and then a long haul through Sweden. The road was practically empty all the way and passed through many small towns/villages. Managed to see quite a few reindeer and not a lot else. Still very hot weather. Will be in Finland tomorrow.
Just heard about Michael Jackson. Say what you want about the man, but his music touched a lot of people.

Coast road 64

More boats and more very hot weather. Finally got onto the coast road 64 which is famous for it's natural attractions and spectacular bridges. The last picture is from the web as it shows the bridge better than my effort. On the last boat crossing met some Harley Davidson folk who invited me to a bikers party on some remote island nearby for the weekend.....

Sunburn!!!!

Great scenery and roads again today. Tommorow will be my last day on the coast road then will head back into Sweden. Had to wait a while at the bottom of a mountain as there was a downhill skateboarding competition going on. There mad, but I wouldn't mind a go at it. Looks fun? Got soaked on the last boat of the day as a big wave crashed over the bow. Think they put me right at the front to get a quick laugh. The women who stepped out of her car to have a chat with me at the time was not impressed! Norway is a beautifull and friendly place but it is soooooo expensive. Oh yeah! Managed to get a very red sunny forehead which goes well with the dirt on the rest of my face. How does one get sunburnt when wearing a helmet n goggles all day anyhows?

It's great up north

Did 2 hours of route planning this morning and it has definatly paid off. Got my route down for the next 5 days. Today was smooth and hassle free with great riding and a great destination. The further north into Norway the more snow covered mountains, massive waterfalls, great twisty roads, longer tunnels, and exciting bridges there are. The early part of the day was spent island hopping via bridges, tunnels and a boat, and in the late afternoon I was climbing the mountains via corksrew tunnels and hairpin bends. The place I am staying is at the top of the mountain overlooking a waterfall and the road I just came up on. Now sitting down with a beer in the sun -very nice. £5.00 though for a small bottle of beer! Can't have everything I suppose.

Lost

Oslo was fun and will definatly visit again. There is a lot to see there and to be honest I didn't see very much of it! The coast road today although very pretty was full of tunnels, bridges, dead ends and little dirt track roads. Was hard work trying to find a campsite that had anybody about. So as it was getting late I headed into the nearest village and stumbled on a little hotel. Don't know where I am but it's a nice place by the water. Will pop into some shops to get a map and bits n pieces in the morning.
Oh yeah! FART translated is "speed" and the definition for 'Camping in Norway'; according to the Urban Dictionary; is to stick the tip of the thumb down the end of ones jap eye. For example: "I was bored last night, so thought I'd go camping in Norway. now my bell end hurts"
I have no idea what there talking about!

Oslo

Just headed 500km on the motorway to get to Oslo today. Yeah, it was dull but it means I get another day on the beautifull coast road in Norway. I will be at the starting point tomorrow afternoon.
Have now done 3,600 miles on this trip.
A bit disapponted as I still haven't seen any tramps. All good places should have a least one of em. Here is some pictures I have found of the type of thing I expect to see...

Into Sweden

Visited the Jelling mounds and the Viking ship museum in Denmark, then headed into Sweden via the long and expensive bridges to look at some Viking stones. It was a long walk in the sun to the site and I met 2 Polish lads on their bikes. One on a BMW and the other on a rather cool looking Africa Twin with a Redbull paint job. Was hard finding a place to stay as the tourist season doesn't start for another 2 weeks. Many places are closed but got to see a wild boar jump out of the long grass and into the road whilst looking. Still got problems with the bike alarm - hopefully the KTM dealer will be in contact in the morning and tell me how to remove it. Will be in Norway Monday afternoon.
Should also mention that there are a lot of signs that say "FART" in Sweden. Must find out what they mean.

God Morgen

Went to Skagen which is the northest point of Denmark. Reminded me of Lands End (a little). Found A campsite about 11pm on the way to the Jelling Mounds. Will visit the Viking Ship Museum just outside Copenhagen and then head over the bridges into Sweden. Was strange pitching the tent in the dark after Icelands 24 hour daylight.

The Norröna

The boat journey back to Denmark was a more pleasant one than the previous with a lot of motorcycle riders from all different countries. Was good to share all our adventures and mishaps with each other over many beers and tequilers! Bed time was around 6 in the morning and then slept most of the day.

Knackered

Didn't get much sleep as the horses outside were trying to jump over each other and not quite making it....... all night.

Heartless Ba#*$rd

Just about got dry by the morning and walked down the road to collect me bike. The alarm went off as soon as i touched it and after some tinkering the bike started. PHEW! Once running I did not turn the ignition off for the rest of the day as I knew it would not start again due to the weather. It poured down and I arrived wet n miserable to the campsite. I took one look at my friend from Greece in his little tent soaking wet; and even though I hadn't seen him for 7 days; like a true pal I left him and booked into a nice warm lodge next door. I am now looking at the campsite from my twin room and laughing, about to have a warm shower, and then tuck into a free buffet to celerbrate an Icelandic specilal event. Sometimes I surprise myself with my generous, warm nature. Boat to Denmark in morning. Will have a meal with the Greek one tonight. Apparantly he has had some mechanical issues too.

Wet 'n' windy

Strong winds and chucking it down today. Was having to lean the bike 5 to 10 degrees just to keep the bike on the road. Very cold and the rain was more like ice as it hit me. Water got into the alarm key fob and shorted it and so was stranded as the bike would not start. Managed to get to destination by holding the fob button down whilst connecting the battery. Bike now won't start at all and if I try and move it the alarm goes off! Left it down the road. The last trip the alarm kept flattening the battery. They are a pain and I will be removing it ASAP. Popped into a little village called Vix in the morning which reminded me of Bilbo Baggins 'n' the like.

Eggscuse me

Stayed in the land of egg last night, about 60km outside of Reykjavik The smell was interesting so thought I'd have a shower but the water smelt of rotton eggs too. So in the morning I showered in egg, ate an egg and later dropped an egg.
Because of the tyres I headed back into Reykjavik only to find the KTM dealer shut. Luckilly next door was an adventure motorcycle tour company. The owner phoned around, picked up a tyre from his friends shop and then got his brother to fit it. The guy's there were great and one brother had done around the world and his bike was proudly on display. Another guy knew just about everyone and helped to organise the photography for the latest KTM brochure in Iceland. In the afternoon met a nice chap from America and he took some pictures and took down the blog address. If he is reading this....Hi.

Roast Lamb and The Hulk

Phoned KTM this morning and the only dealer is in Reykjavic but there are loads in Denmark. Have chosen to carry on and nurse the bikes tyres back to the ferry port. A bit sad as will now have to stick to tarmac as much as possible for the next 4 days and take it at a steady pace. 2 lambs ran out infront of me this morning. Thank you KTM for the ABS. Was a close call though. Bridge closed so was diverted onto more gravel/dirt roads and then when on tarmac I took the bike off at a corner down a bank. No problem, but when trying to get back onto the road the rear wheel dug into the loose soil and the bike bottomed out with only half of it sticking out onto the road. Not sure how but in a moment of Incredible Hulk like powers I managed to lift the bike out of the hole and onto the road. Amazing what the human body can do when it has to. The afternoons riding through the snow filled mountains was cold and has left the rear tyre nearly bald.